HAVANA – March 2012
Wednesday
We arrived early evening after a good flight, during which we slept most of the time. Havana airport was a bit chaotic, but a rep met us and introduced us to Lazarus who would be our guide on the following two days. Then outside to the beautiful classic car which was to take us to our hotel. It was all a bit of a rush and we didn’t get a chance to take any pics before we were hustled away and out on to the busy roads. There were some very interesting buildings as we got closer to the city and my camera was clicking away right up to the moment when we arrived at our hotel! Sadly, the light was going by that time and the suspension in the car was bouncing around, so no decent shots!
We arrived early evening after a good flight, during which we slept most of the time. Havana airport was a bit chaotic, but a rep met us and introduced us to Lazarus who would be our guide on the following two days. Then outside to the beautiful classic car which was to take us to our hotel. It was all a bit of a rush and we didn’t get a chance to take any pics before we were hustled away and out on to the busy roads. There were some very interesting buildings as we got closer to the city and my camera was clicking away right up to the moment when we arrived at our hotel! Sadly, the light was going by that time and the suspension in the car was bouncing around, so no decent shots!
The hotel was right in the middle of
the main square, and perfectly situated for exploring the city. It was huge, and quite posh. Our room was enormous (and the toilet had a
seat, which we’d been warned might not be the case!!) with a small balcony from
where we could see everything that was going on in the square. Classic cars were everywhere, plus horses and
carriages for the tourists and the ubiquitous yellow coco-taxis and
bico-taxis. And lots of hooting and tooting going on!
We went downstairs to one of the
three restaurants for dinner – the food was surprisingly good though the
service was a bit unsmiling. We were too
tired to anything but go to our room after dinner and have a good long sleep –
especially as we had to be up early next morning.
Thursday
Lazarus, our guide, was in reception bright and early and we set off on a walking tour of the old city (Havana Vieja) The Capitolio building was on the other side of the square from our hotel and was built to resemble the Capitol building in the US (I bet they wouldn’t do that now!). There is also the grand theatre and the architecture was stunning. I can’t remember much detail about what else Lazarus showed us as there was just so much! He took us to the top of a hotel which Ernest Hemmingway used to stay in, and the views from the top were incredible. So was my first mojito! We spent the morning walking with Lazarus and admiring the sights, then he left us at lunchtime to continue exploring by ourselves – which we did until my feet felt they didn’t belong to me! I knew I should have taken a sensible pair of shoes! Stops of course for drinks (more mojitos!) and a very nice lunch. Tons of meat and very few veg, which really set the tone for the whole holiday. We had dinner at the hotel again (in a different restaurant) which was delicious and this time we had service with a smile. There was a pianist playing (can’t think of the word – saloon type music?) and after a while he was really getting on our nerves! Really tired after our exertions, so straight to bed.
Lazarus, our guide, was in reception bright and early and we set off on a walking tour of the old city (Havana Vieja) The Capitolio building was on the other side of the square from our hotel and was built to resemble the Capitol building in the US (I bet they wouldn’t do that now!). There is also the grand theatre and the architecture was stunning. I can’t remember much detail about what else Lazarus showed us as there was just so much! He took us to the top of a hotel which Ernest Hemmingway used to stay in, and the views from the top were incredible. So was my first mojito! We spent the morning walking with Lazarus and admiring the sights, then he left us at lunchtime to continue exploring by ourselves – which we did until my feet felt they didn’t belong to me! I knew I should have taken a sensible pair of shoes! Stops of course for drinks (more mojitos!) and a very nice lunch. Tons of meat and very few veg, which really set the tone for the whole holiday. We had dinner at the hotel again (in a different restaurant) which was delicious and this time we had service with a smile. There was a pianist playing (can’t think of the word – saloon type music?) and after a while he was really getting on our nerves! Really tired after our exertions, so straight to bed.
Friday
Lazarus met us again and escorted us to our classic car (a different one this time) for our tour of the new Havana. As we left the city, it became greener and more open, and the residential areas were quite a relevation - big villa-type houses with gardens, interspersed with various foreign embassies. We stopped at a square which had fascinating trees around the edges (walking figs) and took a few pics, then onto a little oasis of green with a small river flowing through it. We stepped over the remains of several dead birds and wondered how they got there – until we looked up and saw a huge turkey vulture glaring at us from a branch above our heads. Obviously that was his dining room, and the feathers and wings the remains of his many meals!
Lazarus met us again and escorted us to our classic car (a different one this time) for our tour of the new Havana. As we left the city, it became greener and more open, and the residential areas were quite a relevation - big villa-type houses with gardens, interspersed with various foreign embassies. We stopped at a square which had fascinating trees around the edges (walking figs) and took a few pics, then onto a little oasis of green with a small river flowing through it. We stepped over the remains of several dead birds and wondered how they got there – until we looked up and saw a huge turkey vulture glaring at us from a branch above our heads. Obviously that was his dining room, and the feathers and wings the remains of his many meals!
On to Revolution Square (past
the very ugly Russian Embassy). This
square is absolutely enormous and is where all the major political speeches are
made. A soulless place though – and very
hot with no shade – so I was glad to leave there. It was being got ready for the forthcoming
visit by the pope and I could imagine what it must look like when full to
bursting with people.
Back to our hotel
in time for lunch, before which we had a
drink with Lazarus and thanked him for his enthusiasm and for showing us his
city. After lunch, we set off to explore
on our own again - along the Malecon (the sea wall) which stretches for
miles. There were several little boats
and Lazarus had told us earlier that the law dictates that none of them can be
over a certain size. Miami is only 90
odd miles away, and the government don’t want any Cubans to escape. I found it really sad.
We ventured into the back streets, away from
the normal tourist route and soon found ourselves alone among the locals, but
at no point did we feel unsafe or threatened, despite us both having our
cameras at the ready. In fact, most
people smiled and said hello - or asked what nationality we were and, when we
said English, their response was the same as it is the world over – Ah,
Manchester United! We passed several
fruit stalls and a butcher’s shop which seemed to only have one large joint of
meat hanging up, and a couple of small fruit markets usually built into the
ruins of old buildings. Fruit seems to
be the only commodity which is not in short supply – most other things are
rationed. The homes in which people were
living were so poor and decaying, though you could still see how beautiful they
must have been at one time – the wonderful architecture was to be seen
everywhere.
Back to the tourist area for
a very welcome drink, and we sat people-watching for a while. Tony wanted to continue exploring, but I was
knackered so we went back to the hotel (I’d never have found it by myself!) and
then he went off by himself for an hour or so.
Dinner at the hotel again (I couldn’t bear the thought of walking
another step that day!) and to bed. I
was rather dreading the following day as my poor feet hurt so much.
Saturday
We had a lazier start today and my feet had recovered a bit, so off we went again, doing more of what we’d done before. There is just so much to see and, even if you retrace your steps, there’s always something you missed before. A nice leisurely lunch again, with a few pitstops for drinks – and another lovely day.
We had a lazier start today and my feet had recovered a bit, so off we went again, doing more of what we’d done before. There is just so much to see and, even if you retrace your steps, there’s always something you missed before. A nice leisurely lunch again, with a few pitstops for drinks – and another lovely day.
In the evening, we took a taxi to a
restaurant which had been booked for us by the tour company. It’s supposed to be the best restaurant in
Havana and tables have to be booked far in advance. We had gone to see where it was the previous
day, and it’s a good job it had a sign on the wall, because we would never have
believed it was a restaurant! It was in
a very poor, run-down street and when we arrived that evening, a huge man
greeted us, shook hands with an equally huge smile and directed us to the
second floor. As we went through the
arched doorway, we found ourselves in an empty space which looked derelict, but
a very ornate staircase led up to the next floor. When we reached it, we couldn’t believe it.
It was one vast room, the ceiling supported by pillars, with the remains of
frescoes around the top of the walls. It
must have been beautiful in its heyday.
Up another ornate staircase to a simple door. We could vaguely hear voices from within and,
when we opened it, we found ourselves in a bustling restaurant. Very unostentatious, with posters and photos
of old film stars around the walls. It
was divided into three or four separate rooms and the very small kitchen was
directly in front of us and very busy.
We were shown to our table, which was beautifully laid with mismatched
old glassware and cutlery by a smiling waitress, and it wasn’t long before our
first course arrived. The food was very
good, and there was a great atmosphere.
I am so glad we went. We’d
intended on walking home, though I was a bit apprehensive, but when we got
downstairs, we were almost pushed into a waiting taxi by the doorman! We were very grateful (so were my feet!)
Sunday
We had a leisurely morning packing and went to sit in Reception, reading until our private transfer arrived. Except that it didn’t! Started to panic a bit, especially as we knew we were supposed to check in three hours before our flight. In the end we got a taxi and arrived at the airport in good time. And then we were confused, because the flight had been brought forward by an hour. We later discovered that the clocks were due to go forward that day, but the Cuban government had decided at the last minute that they wouldn’t! We stood in a queue to have our visas checked for ages and ages – heaven knows how it took so long. They strictly enforced that only one person could go up at a time, after which they had to go through a door which was then temporarily locked again. A bit disconcerting. The strangest thing happened in that queue. We were all filling out forms with the phone numbers of emergency contacts and the man in front of us asked his wife for their daughter’s phone number. It was a Wimborne number. We got chatting to them, and discovered that they (not the daughter) lived two miles down the road from us! Eventually, we got through visa control and didn’t have long to wait for our flights. And we’d upgraded, so we had a really comfortable journey home (complimentary champagne as soon as we were seated!)
We had a leisurely morning packing and went to sit in Reception, reading until our private transfer arrived. Except that it didn’t! Started to panic a bit, especially as we knew we were supposed to check in three hours before our flight. In the end we got a taxi and arrived at the airport in good time. And then we were confused, because the flight had been brought forward by an hour. We later discovered that the clocks were due to go forward that day, but the Cuban government had decided at the last minute that they wouldn’t! We stood in a queue to have our visas checked for ages and ages – heaven knows how it took so long. They strictly enforced that only one person could go up at a time, after which they had to go through a door which was then temporarily locked again. A bit disconcerting. The strangest thing happened in that queue. We were all filling out forms with the phone numbers of emergency contacts and the man in front of us asked his wife for their daughter’s phone number. It was a Wimborne number. We got chatting to them, and discovered that they (not the daughter) lived two miles down the road from us! Eventually, we got through visa control and didn’t have long to wait for our flights. And we’d upgraded, so we had a really comfortable journey home (complimentary champagne as soon as we were seated!)
Visiting Havana was
the most tremendous experience and has left us with some very happy
memories. If my diary lacks detail about
the sights we saw, it’s because it’s difficult to describe. It really was all about the architecture, the
cars and the people, and I leave it to our photos to tell the whole story.
